Midnight Rider on a Graveyard Run

I’m a moto-journalist writing a story about the eight million Americans who work the graveyard shift. I was intrigued by these night shifters and graveyard tanker yankers. Where do midnight riders eat and sleep while traversing the dark tarmac at witching hour. This story is about Truckers, men and women delivering precious cargo. And of course there are the outlaws, hijackers, thieves, prostitutes and last call for alcohol desperados drunk driving one eyed blind. Finally, the legions of highway patrol protecting innocent travelers. I was on a mission to write their story but the longer I rode the deeper and darker the story became and what I found horrified me. 30,000 motor vehicle deaths are reported yearly and what is this bloody trail of buried bones of brutally murdered women called the Corridor of Death? Who is abducting 2000 people a day, half a million people in the U.S yearly and what are the motives? These questions, and many more, I never knew existed now haunt my dreams.

LINK TO BOOK HERE

Night Two. Las Cruses to HoustonTX- 804 miles

Its 6pm the next day, I mean next night.  I head out for another long dark ride. So far the weathers been kind but hear that high winds and are reported inTexas.

33,808 motor vehicle deaths were reported in 2009. That’s almost 100 people a day.

My thoughts turn dark and I feel out of sync, like a prop in some bizarre Salvador Dali painting. People die on these deserted highways every day and I am completely alone in this darkness. It’s a dangerous place for many reasons. One momentary lapse of concentration and the motorcycle is hurled into some unknown abyss completely undetected. It could be weeks, months before my body is found.  Having US Fleet tracking on board provides some reassurance. Hopefully my suspicious girlfriend is monitoring my progress. The ever impending possibility of traffic accidents and the unforeseen shadows my thoughts.

Benson Arizona: Officers found the body of a man who had been struck and killed on Interstate 10 near Benson this morning.

SparksNevada: Police identify a woman killed by a semi-trailer truck at a truck stop on Interstate 80 but still seek the offender.

White Pine, TN: Two truckers were killed in separate incidents at aTennesseetruck stop during a four-day span. Both incidents reportedly happened at thePilotTravelCenterat exit 4 on Interstate 81.

And there’s a killer on the road. In 2009 the Highway Serial Killings Initiative (HSKI) was formed after an analyst from the Oklahoma Bureau of Investigation detected a crime pattern: the bodies of murdered women were being dumped along the Interstate 40 corridor in Oklahoma,Texas,Arkansas, and Mississippi, it was branded by HSKI as the Corridor of Death.  A bureau database has grown to more than 500 female victims, most of whom were killed and their bodies dumped at truck stops, motels and other spots along popular trucking routes crisscrossing the U.S. Often, the victims are prostitutes, hitchhikers and stranded motorists abducted in one state and dumped in another. On October 5th 2010 USA Today did a feature story on Highway Serial Killers.

http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/2010-10-05-1Ahighwaykiller05_CV_N.htm

And who are the killers? Authorities say they have 200 suspects; almost all are long-haul truck drivers. To date, the FBI says it has helped local authorities arrest at least 10 suspects believed to be involved in more than 30 of the killings. Investigators speculate that the mobility, lack of supervision and access to potential victims that come with the job make it a good cover for someone inclined to kill. Truck stop prostitutes are the primary victims. “You’ve got a mobile crime scene,” one investigator said. “You can pick a girl up on the East Coast, kill her two states away and then dump her three states after that.”

The truckers call the prostitutes “Lot Lizards”.  DallasTexas: in a monthly roundup of prostitutes vice police have identified more than 1,300 prostitutes working four truck stops that serve more than 2,000 big rigs a day. “Truckers were conducting counter-surveillance for prostitutes,” Dallaspolice Sgt. Louis Felini said. “They let them use CB radios to advertise prostitution and drugs. As soon as a squad car entered the lot, every truck driver knew how many cops and where they were.” Arresting prostitutes accomplished little. Many considered going to jail part of the cost of doing business and were back at the truck stops within 48 hours, Felini said.           http://youtu.be/OMMSXaTAYx8

What began as an intriguing Midnight Rider Run has become the Highway to Hell and I’m not even 22 hours into a long, long haul. The endless tunnel of darkness that isTexasis totally mind-numbing. There is no escape, just keep moving forward… fast. As the winds kick up ghostly shadows dance across the white stripes as unseen hands punch and push at me, pummeling the speeding motorcycle across lanes. There are long sections of highway where I am completely alone and push 110 mph in a pathetic attempt to get to the next patch of distant lights. Racing towards the glow of the next safe haven only to pass again into the complete blackness, this is where the weak falter: or tough get tougher.  Will Barclays tip #5 becomes clearer than ever, be mentally and physically prepared.

http://www.bikernetbaggers.com/pages/midnight_rider_on_a_graveyard_run.aspx

Then my lights go out. All my lights go out, the bike is still running but the dash, the running lights, headlamp, taillights and HID accessory lamps…out, dead, nix, nay, nada. The demons of darkness now caress the hairs on my neck.

To be Continued demons in the Dark II

Story by Gary Koz Mraz

Moto-Photo Journalist/Blogger

Who’s traversing the dark tarmac at witching hour on American highways?  The most obvious answer is of course truckers, working men and women delivering precious cargo to a napping nation. 70% of all freight is delivered by diesel jockeys accounting for 255 billion dollars in trade yearly. They’reAmerica’s last real cowboys/girls riding the open range.  Secondly are outlaws. Hijackers, thieves, prostitutes and last call for alcohol desperados driving drunk bumps one eyed blind.  Lastly is the Highway Patrol protecting random travelers andAmericascowboys/girls against the outlaws.

What about us motorcyclists?  When was the last time you rode all night long?  I was suddenly intrigued by these midnight riders on a graveyard run. I love 800 mile rides but never ride all night long and I’m even night-time wired, regularly up until 3am hunched over hot computer.  Writing about, not riding on a dark deserted highway. Who are these night shifters and graveyard tanker yankers? Where do midnight riders eat and sleep when traveling all night…I’m going to find out.

Just how does one prepare to become a Midnight Rider? I asked two-time Hoka Hey first finisher and friend Will Barclay. The consummate Midnight Rider Will Barclay won Hoka Hey 2010, 8,500 miles of secondary roads from theFlorida Keysto Homer Alaska. Will crossed the finish line almost a full day ahead of the pack winning the half-million-dollar payoff. It took him 194 hours and only 10 of those hours his wheels weren’t turning. He was also the very first to cross the finish line in 2011 after more that 10,000 miles.  What does Will Barclay do to prepare for all night rides?

Will Barclays 10 Tips to being a Midnight Rider

1. Light Up Your Ride: Get accessory running lights, side lights, low lights HID lights, reflectors. Add any pair of HID lights and you will own the night.

2. Carry Small Flashlights: “I started The Hoka Hey with half a dozen small led lights tethered to my coat, as zipper pulls on my tank bag, and in my pockets. I finished with one. I particularly like the dim ones so that I can examine an instrument or a map without as much damage to my night vision” Will stated.

3. Wear Reflective Clothing. Today’s technology affords good looking gear that lights up like a Christmas tree when hit by headlights.

4. Expect the Worst Weather:  Its gonna get cold, if you need heated gear get it, especially for your hands.

5. Be Mentally and Physically Prepared: Reset your internal clock by staying up all night and sleeping all day.

6. Have Food and Water Accessible: Keep a tank bag of easily opened snacks and water always easily accessible when riding. “ I carry MRE’s.  Meals Ready to Eat, also an apple does more to wake you up than does a cup of coffee” stated Will.

7. Plan Fuel Stops: Some fuel vendors close for the night. In some states it is unlawful for them to leave their self-serve pumps powered unless there is an attendant present. Carry a one-gallon fuel can in a saddlebag.

8. Clear Field of View: “Make sure that you can look over, not through your windshield. crazed, cracked, pitted or dirty windshields that are acceptable in daylight can be a true hazard at night, especially if it rains. Make sure you can look at the road 50 yards ahead and I carry a microfiber cloth to wipe and clean the top few inches of the windshield while riding” Will said.

9. Full face Helmet and Earplugs:  Full faced enhanced aerodynamics, enables phone communications and protects from inclement weather. Earplugs further reduced noise and stress.

10. Use GPS Tracking: Will suggests using US Fleettracking. Their GPS system was used in the last Hoka Hey Motorcycle challenge. It tracks speed and location in real time and is an amazing tool for riders safety and time confirmation. Plus my suspicious girlfriend will finally see if I’m really “writing a story”.

www.willbarclay.com

I’m also in cahoots with All Cities Transport owned by the infamous Harry Fischer. Yes the one and only captain of the Victor McLaughlin motorcycle drill team for the last 20 years.  Harry has been giving me tips on long haul life. Truckers use the CB (Citizens Band) regularly and suggest I get one for the trip.  Pretty cool, “breaker breaker see any smokys Bandit”! I can eavesdrop on the trucker chatter for weather and Smokey’s. He also suggests a deer whistle.

Where do Midnight Riders Sleep?

Hotel/Motels cater to 9 to 5ers, so where will I sleep in the daytime during my six nights of travel?  It’s called Early Check-In and hotel/motels can only accommodate you if they have a room that wasn’t booked that day. Legally they cannot re-book a room within a 12 hour cycle. They’ll only know the very night you need your room if it’s available and will alert housekeeping so you’re not bothered during the day.  Carry good earplugs and an eye mask.  Midnight riders lose housekeeping services if you stay more than one night. You better know your route, potential motels and have their phone numbers in your cell phone.

To be continued…Night One: The Lonely Road

Gary Koz Mraz

Moto-Photo Journalist/Blogger www.kozmoto.com

Who’s traversing the dark tarmac at witching hour on American highways?  Who are these night shifters and graveyard tanker yankers? Where do midnight riders eat and sleep when traveling all night…I’m going to find out on a motorcycle.

My Ride: I want a great stereo. I want comfortable seating and massive storage. I want heated grips and seats. I want a freakin heated cup holder for my coffee. I got a Victory Cross Country Tour with accessory lights, the Victory integrated CB system, XM radio, Six days of music on my iPod, US Fleetracking, extra gas and yes, a deer whistle.  This midnight rider on a graveyard run will roll on route 10 toFlorida. It’s an endless mind numbing ride through the deserts ofArizona andTexas, nothing to see in daytime anyway. Then it’sLouisiana, a touch ofMississippi,Alabamaand finallyFlorida.

I am going to follow all the AMCSA riles and regs, just like the 3.5 millionU.S.truck drivers.

Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration: FMCSA Rules & Regs

11 Hour driving limit: During the 14-consecutive-hour duty period you are only allowed to drive your truck for up to 11 total hours. There is no limit on how many of those hours you are allowed to drive at one time, you may drive for as little as a few minutes or as much as 11 hours in a row. Once you have driven a total of 11 hours, you have reached the driving limit and must be off duty for another 10 consecutive hours before driving again.

60 Hours in 7 days: You are not allowed to drive after you’ve been on duty 60 hours during any 7 consecutive days.

34-Hour Restart: The regulations allow you to “restart” your 60 hour calculations after having at least 34 consecutive hours off duty. In other words, after you have taken at least 34 hours off duty in a row, you have the full 60 hours available again.

Night One: Long BeachCA to Las Cruses NM -762 miles

I leaveLong Beachat 8:00 PM and plan an 8:00 am stay inLas CrucesNew Mexico, 762 miles away for my first days sleep.  I will abide by the driving limits enforced by the FMCSA and just like truckers on this midnight ride I will eat all meals and gas up at truck stops. My Victory Cross Country Tour is locked and loaded.  Leaving on a full moon to soak up heavens fluorescence I passPalm Springsin a blink of an eye… nothing but open desert. My first gas stop is in Coachella T/A Travel Center 226 miles, 3.3 hours and 5.2 gallons later. Gas up, have a bite to eat at coffee and a smoke and peruse the scene around me.

While reading the local Desert Sun newspaper come across this:  A judge orders TA Travel Center truck stop to pay a $1.2 million settlement in a civil environmental suit. The judgment is against and underground fuel tank system at46-155 Dillon Roadnear the Interstate 10 freeway in Coachella. It was determined that the location where tanker trucks refill the underground storage tank, which is supposed to protect the environment, was badly damaged and leaking.

Truck stops are small cities solely dedicated to road nomads with laundry machines, men’s and women’s showers, TV and movie rooms, wireless internet access, copies, fax machines, driver’s lounges and trucker stores. They sell every kind of fuel and take every kind of credit card. I walk around astounded at how many people are here.

Back in the saddle settle in to a long lonely graveyard shift to Tucson AZ. Fully engaged I’m talking to truckers about road conditions and potential speed traps. After six hours in this endless blackness my mind begins to wander. 8 million Americans work graveyard as the rest of us sleep.  You probably meet interesting people that’s for sure. No commuter traffic, parking is easy to find and all executive bozos are snoozing. Quite honestly I do my best work at three in the morning but am rarely pushing triple digits doing so.  This is amazing…I’m living my own reality TV show and contemplate the reality show Deadliest Roads.  The Ice Road Truckers team headed fromAlaska to South America andHimalayas to face some of the most difficult and dangerous roads in the world. Drivers are pitted against the world’s highest mountain ranges where the rules of the road don’t apply, sounds fun.

I am already 7 hours into my 11 hour driving limit and making great time. It’s amazing how much terrain you can travel in the cover of darkness but that last 275 miles to Las Cruses New Mexico were the worst.  Heading into Wilcox Arizonaand the sun is rising, right into my tired red eyes. Heading eastward the next three hours I am completely blinded, I have no recourse but my helmets flip down sun visor.  Blurry vision coupled with smudged glasses, dark sunshield, dirty outer helmet shield and a bug spattered windshield in direct sunlight made this the most painful stretch of highway yet.  Wills tip # 8. Clear Field of View:  pays off again. I had a microfiber cloth and with drinking water kept things clean.  762 miles, 18.3 gallons, 11 hours riding, 6 cups of coffee and 4 cigarettes later I thank Victory for heated grips and seats and my CB radio helping me keep (or lose) my sanity.  Either way, its 8 in the morning and I am very glad to get some sleep and check into the Royal Host Hotel  2146 W. Picacho Ave. Las Cruces, New Mexico.

To be continued…Night Two: Demons of Darkness

http://www.mydesert.com/article/20120315/NEWS08/120315008/Operator-TA-Travel-Center-Coachella-ordered-pay-1-2-million-environment-lawsuit

I’m an all American-red-blooded-mid-western boy…born without a sports gene. Granted, in 1988 while visitingCleveland(my hometown) and the Browns played the Denver Broncos in an AFC championship game I was on the table hootin ‘n’ hollerin like everyone else inCleveland…until “The Fumble”.  I first realized my genetic mutation many years ago motorcycling L. A. and was astounded at how desolate the freeways were.  Had the Rapture occurred and I missed the boat? I then realized it was Super Bowl Sunday and ever since, I ride every Super Bowl Sunday and mix with other genetically lacking brethren.

 Seal Beach at 2:15 Super Bowl Sunday

As pre-game festivities were in full swing I hitPacific Coast Highway.  The Traffic flowed like Tony Dorsett on a 99 yard touch down. My first stop is Seal Beach Pier and there’s ample parking and no congestion. Its 2:15 only 45 minutes before the big game and I continue south towards the normally gridlocked Huntington Beach Pier.  Within a surprising 13 minutes arrive to completely deserted parking lot and desolate beach.  2:28 Wow, I really am alone, in fact, I don’t recall seeing another rider. It seems my gene pool is thinning.

 Strange sight indeed, an empty parking lot at Huntington Beach2:28 Sunday

Continuing south, its smooth sailing toNewport Beachpier and again it’s a minor miracle of available parking.  No need to stop here and ogle I keep riding a free flowing PCH to Dana Point Harbor.

                                           Newportand a completely vacant Dana Point Harbor

Its 3:00, the big game begins and the world around me has come to full stop. It’s far too eerie here inDanaPointand I rideOrtega Highwaytowards Hells Kitchen, surely a wild Super Bowl party with be raging there. Open roads, zero traffic make for motorcyclingMecca. I encounter almost no cars or motorcycles when suddenly a dozen sport bikes blow by heading downward.  Finally, other riders with my mutation, other congenital delinquents seeking solace and serenity on Super Bowl Sunday. Why do I get the feeling they’re really racing home to catch Madonna and the half time show.

Upon arrival at Hells Kitchen I have a chilling realization. The party is elsewhere and this normally bustling rider hangout has no bikers to be seen, too embarrassed to enter I continue to Lookout Roadhouse and find I am literally the only human being here. I ask Barbara if it’s been quiet and she stares at me as if I’m speaking in tongues.   I enjoy a cold Rat Bastard root beer and grilled veggie sandwich while soaking up the solitude; this is exactly why I ride on Superbowl Sunday. L.A.Countyhas almost 10 million people and it’s difficult to find personal space, I take full advantage of this rare opportunity. At the risk of sounding like an armchair philosopher, standing at Lookouts summit, scanningLakeElsinoreandSan Jacintomountains I am struck with the answer to why I ride these lonely roads. The answer is in the question; I’m always asking a question. What’s beyond the next curve, where will the next ride be, why am I here and when will the road end?  For me, motorcycling is all about experiencing the intensity of the moment in the Zen of here and now, going nowhere…fast.  Also, motorcycling may be one of the few times you are actually alone.  It’s your own personal moving space in the presence of a vast dynamic universe.  It’s the questions you ask, not the answers you get, it’s the journey you take and not the places you stay.

Riding home I own the road and have some fun with the Victory Cross Country. With its 5.8 inch ground clearance and 32 degrees of lean angle she is nimble and responsive for a big 785lb cruiser.  Linked ABS brakes inspire confidence and the big 106 cubic-inch (1,731cc) engine provides ample power.  I blow by two parked CHP cruisers far to fast, a “how-long-till-they-catch-me” kinda fast.   Guess they didn’t wanna miss a play and never lit me up.

I may have missed the ballet of battle played out on a global gridiron but gained singular insight into personal philosophy.  Perhaps member of a species on the brink of extinction but just in case are there are other riders hiding in Super Bowls shadow email me. The next annual Super Bowl Sunday run is to Idyllwild for lunch, Julian for apple pie and then who knows, Rocky Point on theGulf of Californiaisn’t really that far away.

Words and Photos Gary Koz Mraz

Many superlatives have been written about this amazing Big Dog, in fact, the Wolf won V-Twins coveted Best Bike of 2009.  This time, a Wolf with brand new SuperTrapp exhaust pipes lay in wait.  I want to hear the mighty S&S 121ci X-Wedge engine howl and ride to Wolf Mountain Sanctuary.   Located in Lucerne valley, its home to wolves rescued from owners who mistakenly believe that cute little wolf puppies will make domestic house pets.  Wolves can grow to 180 lbs and are able to jump an eight foot fence. When the call of the wild cries and they want out…they get out.  When I want out?  Nothing sooths this savage beast more than riding a Big Dog Wolf motorcycle.

Wolf Mountain Sanctuary lay on the back side of the San Bernardino Mountain range and is the perfect excuse to ride the Rim of the World Scenic Highway (SR18) through Big Bear.  Let’s see how this nine plus foot chopper handles the mountain twisties.  Always a spectacular motorcycle ride (except in winter) the views are breathtaking and roads well maintained.   City Creek Road, SR330, turns into Rim of the World Highway and peaks at over 7600 feet before reaching Big Bear Lake.   Built in 1915 it’s a 101 mile route traversing the rim of the San Bernardino Mountains from Cajon Pass to San Gorgionio pass.  At that time lots on the lake in Big Bear were selling for $150 bucks.   My stunning grey and black Wolf has a comfy 2-up seat and sissy bar allowing me to bring a Dowco Iron Rider overnight bag.  With adjustable Velcro straps it fits snugly onto virtually any sissy bar and easily holds my camera, accessories water and other goodies.   The Iron Rider series has six different pieces of luggage that mix and match to your luggage needs. Made from durable polyester each bag offers storage areas, exterior pockets, webbing, interior compartments, strong molded handles and rain covers are included.

Big Dog Wolf

The Wolf is surprisingly nimble considering its length primarily because of its unique rim/tire combination.  Instead of following fat tire trends, the smaller 220/50R-20 rear coupled with a visually impressive 130/60R-23 front tire creates better physical balance.  Four-piston calipers put the bite on the rotors for confident braking. The seamless aerodynamics of this bike is stunning and its esthetic is uniquely Big Dog Wolf.   Traveling with a group of Triumph riders they were astounded at the Wolfs cornering capability.  Yes, the foot pegs touched down occasionally but with a little reshaping it’s uncanny how well this big bike banks.

Rolling into Big Bear Lake the cooler temps and mountain air are refreshing but it’s only fleeting because Lucerne Valley lies on the desert floor down the backside of the mountain.  Turning left on Division Road you’ll make an immediate right on SR 38 which again turns back into the 18 to Wolf Mountain Sanctuary.  Encountering brief thunderstorms the road became streaked with loose gravel, coupled with 15 mph hairpin turns it’s best to take your time.  Back down to 3200 feet, you leave behind the cool scent and shade of pine forests and enter the dry arid desert.

Wolf Mountian

Once here, they stay for life and her wolves require 130 lbs of meat daily.  Tonya sold her Harley to start Wolf Mountain 30 years ago and the 20 dollar donation for the experience this is well worth it.

Back tracking, ascend again to Big Bear and back on the 18 only now veer onto the 138.    As you drop elevation on the 138 multiple hair pin turns cascade into rollercoaster rhythms.  The Wolf handles himself honorably; I am easily able to shift the 770 lbs side to side elegantly through the slaloms while still working on the shape of those foot pegs for the perfect lean angle.  The terrain flattens out somewhat and a magnificent view of Silverwood Lake comes into view.

Silverwood Lake

Finally dropping down into the Mojave, terrain again becomes an arid desert and crosses the Cajon Pass and 15 Freeway.   The 2 freeway juncture (Angeles Crest highway) is only six miles from the small ski town of Wrightwood.   The Yodeler is biker friendly and a great place to stop for lunch. They’ve been serving patrons for decades offering a menu of Yodeler Dogs, flame broiled half pound Yodeler burgers and gourmet Yodeler pizzas.

Wrightwood california

Again, backtracking the 138 to the 15 south it’s homeward bound and a good 250 mile day. The adjustable rear suspension provides comfort and style for a long haul (it’s also pre-wired for an aftermarket air-ride suspension). The 2-up seat is a must for serious touring and perfectly contours to your lower spine providing excellent lumbar support.  Arm and leg extension is extremely comfortable and with a sissy bar for luggage, the Wolf actually is a very rideable chopper for those 300 mile days.  I doubt many Wolf owners will intentionally push lean angle limits as much as press tends to do but, it’s nothing that a bench grinder can’t fix.

Gary Koz Mraz

Not to sound snooty, but when you roll in with a bike that looks like this, you stand out from the crowd.  The sheer grace of form, elegance in design yet muscular demeanor of this motorcycle is awesome.  The big bad Wolf owns the road and taming this beast is much easier than you may think.  But, beneath Wolfs sleek lines lay a snarling X-Wedge and the ferocious growl of a predator that will always be wild.

I’m not kidding, winning the AMD World Championship of Bike Building after winning both the Freestyle & Modified Harley classes at the IMS Show this baby is for sale!

http://community.motorcycleshows.com/_OWN-the-Worlds-Coolest-Bagger/blog/4203821/151420.html

Motorcycle club patches are not created from middle class daydreams. With long indelible histories, MC club patches are taken very, very seriously.  The National President of the L.A. Based MC “Hessians” was kind enough to share a few thoughts on the subject. “A patch is our trademark it’s also a very visible target, He stated. “Emblazoned with bold letters intentionally, we claim responsibility for our actions, as should everyone else wearing their colors. Wearing a patch comes with certain privileges and expectations, administered and enforced by the club”.

A Checkered Past

The American Motorcycle Association (AMA) was founded in 1924 supported by manufacturers to promote motorcycle riding. They sanctioned groups of riders from the same area as motorcycle “clubs”. Some wore complete matching outfits with the name of their club stitched on the back of their jackets. This was the start of club patches. At the Hollister rally in 1947 a member of the Booze Fighters Motorcycle Club made headlines with an exaggerated news story. The AMA responded in their magazine stating that 99% of all of their members are law-abiding citizens and only 1% are outlaw. This began what is today known as Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and one percenters. Clubs that were not sanctioned by the AMA and non-members of the AMA were banned from attending AMA events. In order to designate themselves as an outlaw club to all other clubs, the one percenters cut their patches into three separate pieces.

The term “colors” referrers to a motorcycle clubs’ patch set up. In the case of a 3 piece, one is placed over the top of the middle large graphic patch and one placed underneath it. The “rockers” are usually curved bars with the top bar designating the club name and the lower bar designating the location of the club. The two rockers are separate from the center field, a larger graphic type patch, hence the term three-piece patch. Most club “colors” will also have MC printed on the “rocker” or a separate “cube” patch with MC on it to further clarify it as a club rather than an organization. The 1% diamond is the key to identifying a hardcore 1%er. It is a patch in the shape of a diamond with “1%” on it. That is mostly worn on the left shoulder but is seen on the back of their colors also.  Some MCs entitle a member to wear a “NOMAD” bottom rocker.  This is only when that member continues to exhibit a lifestyle within the common definition of the word nomad.

The 2 Piece patch like the L.A Fire Hogs designates a Family Club and incorporates the top name rocker, the graphic and MC within one field. The bottom rocker designates their Fire Department, not territory. I have read that the original concept of a 2-part patch was that it was the first step in separating from the single patch in becoming a 3–part patch. Many national organizations in the early 1980’s set policy to unite their “rockers” with their patch and make it one piece to avoid any designation or confusion within the motorcycling club community. H.O.G. (Harley Owners Group) and the Blue Knights (police officers) are an example of the one piece patch. Motorcycle clubs differ from motorcycling organizations as they traditionally have “prospecting” time required before the club members decide whether the individual will be accepted into the group and allowed to wear or “fly” the “colors” of the group. Wearing the AMA patch on the front of your colors/vest will identify you as a family club member. 1 per centers encourages the AMA patch to all clubs because they don’t and won’t wear one. Some clubs wear the AMA patch upside down in protest to being forced to wear it. There are many other patches some clubs wear that mean something only to that particular club.

L.A.  FireHogs

In 1991 John O’Connor and Joe Tierra founded the L.A. Firehogs, the oldest fire fighters motorcycle club in America. Los Angeles has many overlapping clubs and when John decided to solidify the FireHogs with their own designated colors he knew that opening a dialog with other clubs was a good idea.  Clubs individual colors are held in high regard and he knew it was a matter of respect. The Confederation of Motorcycle Clubs is a group that recognizes all local motorcycle chapters and clubs. Typically this is a politically motivated organization generally meeting regarding motorcycle laws and local events but all local clubs usually represented. In 1999 John attended, presented his FireHogs two-part family club patch and discussed their philosophies, bylaws and intentions. The Confederation has no authority over such matters but after the meeting suggestions from the other clubs was invaluable. Hells Angels colors are Red and White, the Vagos use green letters and graphics. Using similar colors as a neighboring club is not a good idea. Generally motorcycle clubs are very private about their personal activities and John was grateful that 1%ers and other clubs offered opinions, which he strictly adhered to.

I joined the Firehogs for their annual memorial run which began at Fire Station 27 in Hollywood.  John discussed Firehogs history and handed out patches to two new members. With 181 members the L.A. Firehogs have raised over a quarter million dollars for Widows, Orphans and Disabled Fireman’s Fund and the LAFRA, L.A. Firemen’s Relief Association.  One hundred percent of the proceeds are donated because of the volunteer efforts by Firehogs. After the memorial ceremony the club roared to brunch at the beach then converged at Paramount Ranch in Agoura Hills. An old movie ranch from the 1940’s it provided a spectacular location for vendor booths and a fantastic day of food, music and entertainment. A commendable effort by the 400 riders in attendance that day.  With all the camaraderie within these brethren it’s easy to see why being part of a club is so enticing.

John O ‘Conner and rider friends

We humans are social animals and being part of a clan is natural instinct. Even if you don’t belong to a select club, whether riding sport bike’s or chopper’s you already belong to a special group just because you ride.  We’ll acknowledge and assist each other any place, any time.  With over one million paying members the H.O.G (Harley Owners Group) is the largest organization and provides patch and pin. The Blue Knights (Police Officer’s) runs second with over twenty thousand members.  The Big Four are the four largest 1% clubs in the world. These include the Hells Angels, established 1948 with chapters in 15 countries. The Banditos, established in 1966. The Outlaws established 1935 and the Pagans, established in 1959. Who knows you may just see the Voodoo Riders rolling through your town yet.

Will Barclay gives away the motorcycle that won him a half million dollar purse. His beloved Electra Glide (named Excalibur) brought him to victory in the 2010 Hoka Hey challenge. He handed the keys to Mark Story the 2nd place Hoka Hey rider at the Harley Davidson Museum in Milwaukee on Friday June 3rd. “Mark is a serious contender “ Will Stated, “he called me and said Hoka Hey was in his blood and asked if I had any sponsors the may help out. An Aussie, living in Australia he just couldn’t shoulder the burden of getting his bike to the U.S. so I gave him Excalibur, my winning Hoka Hey Electra Glide to ride in Hoka Hey 2011. It’s now his to compete Hoka Hey with”. Barclay is also competing again this year and preparing his new steed, a 2011 Street Glide for this years challenge. This year’s Hoka Hey Motorcycle Challenge, which will run through all 48 contiguous states, into Canada and end in Nova Scotia, is sponsored by Harley-Davidson.

I’ve written alot of stories in my time; everything from movie scripts, TV screenplays to song lyrics. As a Moto-Journalist I’ve traveled Hong Kong to Hollywood filling pages with photos and prose.  Usually struggling with traditional writing conventions, I have no plot, no theme, no storyline; just an endless ribbon of road that unfolds before me.  Yeah, we’re going to follow the basic route Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper did in the classic 1969  biker flick, Easy Rider. Sure, we’re meeting up with actress/motorcyclists Katee Sackhoff and Tricia Helfer on their charity ride from Los Angeles to Louisiana in support of the Gulf Restoration Network.  But Easy Rider wasn’t scripted; they made it up as they went along and this story too, will write itself.  2200 miles, 5 days, 2 guys with 1 agenda: to ride long and hard.  To quote Captain America, “Yeah, I’m hip about time but I just gotta go”.

Get Your Motor Running

In Easy Rider Phil Spector’s our “Connection” but alas, there will be no drug deals today so we depart L.A. with tanks full of cash, I mean gas. We’re anxious with anticipation of the approaching adventure (Alliteration: sorry, just can’t help myself) and ride east to the high desert.  We journey through a very different nation than Captain America and Billy traversed in 1969.  Wearing American flags sewn to jackets, painted on gas tanks or helmets is applauded and boldly displaying the international symbol of freedom signifies your allegiance.  The general public of their era scorned longhaired hippies donning the red white and blue, that was seen as an act of defiance. My riding compadre is Heath Cofran, Lucky 13 marketing director, British American Motorcycle Club member, daredevil and all around scoundrel. The red white and blue paint job on his Triumph Bonneville pays homage to his American hero, Evel Knievel.

We shed our city skins as the landscape yawns open wide to big sky and barren desert.   Catching Hwy 62 north towards Joshua Tree we pass the giant wind farms, iconic symbols of America’s pursuit for self-reliance from foreign Oil. The first town we encounter is Yucca Valley, home of the Route 62 Diner. With a 50s décor, each booth has a Seeburg 100 jukebox selector, they serve breakfast all day. We had “The Road Kill” and the “Panhead” for breakfast.  Behind the diner is Hutchins vintage motorcycle museum. To Heath’s astonishment, there sat one of the bikes Evel Knievel rode in his movie Viva Kinevel, what a great start to our story.

Back on Hwy 62 we stop at the Joshua Tree Inn.  It’s where Gram Parson (The Byrds music group) died in 1973.  Room 8 is supposedly haunted and they tout its “Home of Gram Parsons Spirit”.   A really bizarre true story made into a movie called Grand Theft Parsons starring Johnny Knoxville that’s well worth the watch. The site of Parsons desert cremation was marked by a small concrete slab which has since been removed by the U.S. National Park Service and relocated to the Joshua Tree Inn.

Joshua Tree Inn

Amboy Road to historic Roy’s Motel Café is without a doubt a stop on every Easy Riders road trip.  Built in 1938, it served as a desert oasis to travelers on this desolate section of Route 66.  Roy’s vision of a travelers’ Mecca was dashed when the 15 freeway was built virtually bypassing the old Rt. 66. Over the years this gas station, motel and cafe served many thousands and still offers food and gas today (albeit at almost $4.00 a gallon).  This would have been a definite gas stop for Fonda and Hopper since their Harley Sportster peanut tanks only held 2.5 gallons of gas.  Heath can sympathize; his Triumph Bonneville only holds 4.3 gallons as opposed to my Victory Crossroad’s 5.8 gallon capacity, allowing me an easy 200 miles between fill-ups.

Roys in Amboy

Looking for adventure in whatever comes our way

This has been a fun 220 miles but the ride has just begun.  It’s another 377 miles to our first night’s stay: the Americana Inn in Flagstaff. This is where cast and crew stayed while filming Easy Rider in Arizona. We connect to Interstate 40 (Route 66 from 1966 to 1974) and cross the Colorado River at state line where you’ll see the bridges in the beginning credits of the movie.  I hit play on my iPod cued to “Born to be Wild” by Steppenwolf and officially am reliving the movie’s opening credits. We ride 1-40 to Kingman, get off the freeway and follow the signs to enjoy the longest uninterrupted stretch of Route 66 that still remains today.

Williams Arizona was the last town bypassed by interstate 40 and has a very retro vibe. Stop in and party like its 1969.  Unlike those hardtail choppers Captian America and Billy were riding my 2011 Victory Cross Roads is at ease traveling hundreds of miles through this arid terrain.  The sheer number of possible leg positions of cleverly designed engine guards and floorboards make this motorcycle a joy to ride.  The all-new Helical-cut gears reduce whine in fourth and sixth gears of an amazingly quiet six-speed constant mesh transmission. The Victory Cross Roads seems completely at home on such an epic journey.

Americana Inn

The Americana Inn on Rt 66 in Flagstaff Arizona is where the actors and film crew stayed while shooting here and true to our mission, we booked a room for the night. Refraining from slanderous remarks or expletives I will reprint a few reviews posted on Trip Advisor by prior patrons.

“Sleeping in your car is a better idea”

“The absolute worst hotel experience one could have”

“The America Inn should be shut down”

“Well… it’s cheap”

Gonna Make it Happen; take the world in a Love embrace

Heath, Tricia, Katee & Koz

The next morning it’s breakfast with Katee Sackhoff (24, Battlestar Gallactia) and Tricia Helfer (Dark Blue, Battlestar Gallactia).  They met on set and found a common bond motorcycling. Katee, from Seattle, and Tricia, born and raised on a farm in Canada, are both wild spirits; strong willed and adventurous women. Both own Harleys back home and truly love to ride. They formed the Acting Outlaws.org and their 2500-mile trek is in support of the Gulf Restoration Network. GRN is the only environmental advocacy group exclusively focused on the health of the Gulf of Mexico. Their ride into Flagstaff was fraught with fierce wind and rain. The weather hasn’t been kind to these women.  I know because I was there. Katee and Tricia’s mission is to raise awareness and support for the future of the Gulf, ensuring coastal communities have the resources they need and making sure we learn the lessons of the BP drilling disaster to keep this from happening again. Their motto is Do Something.

Katee & Tricia

Our mission is not quite as noble. Heath and I are here to find some film locations used in the Easy Rider movie. Seeing the ladies off, I reflect on the spirit of an American road trip. A nation of immigrants, we all have different histories and different destinations but our desire is the same: freedom. And as riders, whether be it on Japanese sport bikes, American V-Twins, British or German motorcycles we’re all spinning in the same direction full throttle, together on this cosmic blue ball. Analogy: a similarity between like features of two things, on which a comparison may be based.

Only 10 miles out of Flagstaff is Bellemont.  Pull into Grand Canyon Harley for some free coffee and across the parking lot is the Roadhouse Bar and Grille.  Hanging in the entry is the original No Vacancy Sign used in the first location shot.   Only a quarter mile up the road is the Pine Breeze Inn where Billy and Wyatt we’re denied a room their first night.

In “The Making of Easy Rider” Peter Fonda talks of hitting the bar after a long hot day of shooting.  He ordered a cold beer but is arms we’re so stiff from wrestling ape hangers on a hard tail all day that he couldn’t even lift the beer to his mouth.  He also revealed that he missed out on frolicking around the pool one day because he’d soaked his new leathers in the bathtub to give them a more weathered look and to his embarrassment, his legs turned purple from the dye.

We double back and head East on 1-40 towards Flagstaff then north on Hwy 89. I swear to God there is a hitchhiker on the road and if I didn’t have luggage I would have picked his ass up.  You will see Sacred Mountain on your left and at this is the point in the movie Captain America and Billy gas up here and their hitchhiker pays the tab.

Sacred Mountain

Continue north and you will see the sign for Waputki National Monument.  This is where they camp on day one of the film. Unfortunately, camping at Wupatki National Monument, starting a fire or climbing on ruins today is completely out of the question unless you actually do want to spend the night in jail.

Long open expanses allow me to ponder the Cross Roads robust Freedom 106 engine.  This 106ci/1731cc 50-degree power plant is truly exceptional.  It’s a smooth operator with a user-friendly cruise control yet with a flick of the wrist unleashes 97 horses and 113 foot-pounds of torque charging past Big Rigs with ease. Air adjustable suspension, plush seating and acres of cargo capacity make the Cross Roads a solid tourer…did I mention it’s stunning styling?  We catch up Acting Outlaws Katee and Tricia on Hwy 160 and then take Hwy 64 into New Mexico. Ship Rock comes into view and its one of the most awe inspiring surreal visions of our journey. Unfortunately, the awe of Mother Nature unleashes another ferocious downpour and this time she tosses in hail.  The girls have bike-to-bike communication and in the midst of the chaos, Tricia wonders if they should stop. “Stop where?” Katee barks, “were in the middle of Frakin nowhere…just keep moving”.  I’m very impressed at Katee and Tricia’s fortitude in the face of nature’s fury.  We all hit Farmington New Mexico and have a stiff drink.  At this point in the storyline, we’re all fully committed to our missions.

The next morning we leave for Santa Fe and forty miles out of Cuba NM, Heath’s Triumph Bonneville dies and he sputters to the side of the road.  The bike won’t start; this is the end of our road trip and end of the story.  Katee and Tricia are a hundred miles ahead of us and we’re in the middle of nowhere on Sunday. Heath summons his B.A.Moto riding chops, they ride like us, thousands of miles in days and shit happens. Pulling every wire, cleaning every contact, plug and connection Heaths mumbling sounds suspiciously like prayer. The Bonney roars to life, we genuflect, shout a few Hail Mary’s and depart. Strangely enough this really isn’t that far from where Captain America and Billy broke down in the film.  It’s a great scene where they pull into a farm to fix their bike and two farmers are shoeing a horse.  Hopper, who directed the film, wanted the shot of these men from completely different eras juxtaposed.  One man shoes his horse while another changes his tire. Generations apart yet both are caring for their beloved symbol of freedom exemplifying a common bond. Metaphor: A figure of speech in which an implied comparison is made between two unlike things that actually have something important in common.

Praying to the Motorcycle Gods

The 40 takes us past Santa Fe into Las Vegas New Mexico, the location of the exterior jail shot.  Las Vegas NM harkens back to the 1920’s and on Sunday it’s literally a ghost town and feels like a Hollywood movie set.  This is where Captain America and Billy were arrested for Parading without a license and where the exterior jail scene was shot. This is also the spot where Jack Nicholson (George) took his first drink of the day as well.  Nicksons comedic “Nik Nik Nik Fuf Fuf Fuf” routine came from the film crew member who maintained the motorcycles.  The crew member would imitate the sound of the bikes as he kicked started them. Kick, Kick, Kick Fire! Onomatopoeia- the formation or use of words that imitate the sounds associated with the objects or actions they refer to.

The Jail from the Easy Rider movie in Las Vegas NM Today

100 miles north is Taos New Mexico where the swimming scenes at the hippie commune locations were filmed. Stagecoach (Manby) Hot Springs north of Taos has three shallow sand-bottomed rock pools on the east bank of the Rio Grande with temperatures usually about 97 F.  Dennis Hopper ended up living in Taos for 15 years and it’s the burial place of D. H Lawrence.  A must for the hard core easy rider but after three days of bad weather and bad hotels we actually have a nice hotel waiting back in Santa Fe. The Best Western has an indoor pool, Jacuzzi, great rooms and killer complimentary breakfast.  The Best Western Hotel chain offers every Captain America a 10% discount just by joining their free Rider Rewards Program and are very biker friendly.  Most of us are regular workin stiffs and our adventures are well planned and prepared and that’s Ok because Captain America and Billy were chasing the American dream…we get to live it.

Best Western Hotel

It’s our last day riding with Katee and Tricia and we all face 40 to 50 mph wind gusts. Quite honestly my windscreen is flexing as if rubber and the girls look like biker bobble heads. The Big Rigs are devouring three-foot tumbleweeds in Pac-Man-like pursuit leaving us in a wake of shards. After several hours of this brutal beating the girls removed the motorcycle trunks reducing their footprint and kept forging on. Believe me, the last four days have been no picnic looking at the pretty flowers, we’ve all been getting our asses kicked and I truly commend these two women riders.  Heath and I head toward the mountains for relief while the girls head south; they have another five days of riding through Texas to New Orleans.  We Easy Riders have to get back to Los Angeles and besides, everyone knows how this story ends for Captain America and Billy. Katee and Tricia went on to raise thousands of dollars for the Gulf Coast Restoration Project.  Excerpt from the Acting Outlaws website: “We are on a quest to do our part to protect the earth and all it’s inhabitants, we sought a way to marry our love of the open road with our love of humanity. Welcome to the Acting Outlaws.” www.actingoutlaws.com

Epilogue

The song remains the same; the plot’s unchanged and we’re all players in the game.  Whether its Hollywood actors like Fonda and Hopper with roles in Easy Rider, Acting Outlaws Katee and Tricia actually riding 2500 miles for a charity, or just average Americans spending their hard earned money touring this wondrous country, Easy Rider captured a spirit, one that still inspires us today.  Ultimately we’re each writers of our own script defining the story of our lives and as motorcycle riders it’s not our nature to watch the passing parade. We live the adventure, demand a starring role and yes…we actually do ride off in to the sunset.